Restaurant La Renaissance 6 place Malherbe, Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume 83470 France
La Renaissance
Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume (St Maximin to be short) is a town located in the Var département. It is close to Aix-en-Provence (35km), Marseille (45km) and Toulon (50km) where you can get from London-Stansted if you dare to fly with Ryanair. The town is famous for its old basilica (its construction begun in 1295) dedicated to Mary Magdalene. La Renaissance restaurant is in the center of the town, next to the basilica by the way, in the Place Malherbe where ruins of the Roman Villa Lata have been found beneath it.
We were five at the restaurant. We ordered one pichet de vin (6.50 euros), one salade de poulpes (échalottes, câpres, cornichons, huile d’olives – octopus salad with shallots, capers, pickles, olive oil – 12 euros), one salade de St Jacques tièdes (salade, St Jacques, noix, tomates, oeuf – salad with warm scallops, nuts, tomatoes, egg – 13.50 euros), one tagliatelles carbonara (11.50 euros), two St Jacques à la provençale (scallops with parsley, garlic, tomato – 27 euros), one coca cola (3.10 euros), one crème brûlée (5.50 euros), one profiteroles (5.50 euros), one Baba au rhum (4.90 euros) and three coffees (4.50 euros).
Other interesting meals were the magret de canard au vinaigre de vin au jus de framboise (duck breast with wine vinegar and raspberry juice), magret de canard aux morilles (duck breast with morel mushrooms), entrecôte sauce aux cèpes (steak with with mushroom sauce), tagliatelles Pistou (garlic, fresh basil, and olive oil), salade de scampis à l’indienne (salad, cherry tomatoes, fried prawns tandoori way, pineapple, orange, grapefruit, egg), salade de melon (lettuce, melon, prosciutto, cherry tomatoes, feta, egg), salade du berger (lettuce, tomatoes, eggs, fried peppers, cucumbers, goat cheese, mushrooms), andouillette sauce moutarde à l’ancienne (mild pork sausage with mustard sauce), alouette sans tête à l’ancienne (no, it is not a headless lark but rolled veal scallops with tomato, garlic), gambas grillées à l’ail et basilic (grilled prawns with garlic and basil), truite aux amandes (trout with almonds) or the cuisses de grenouilles (frog legs, if you are into them. I am not!).
Salade de St Jacques tièdes
Salade de poulpes
Tagliatelles Carbonara
St Jacques à la provençale
Everyone was happy with their meals. Good news! We were a little worried as the town gets plenty of tourists because of the Christian pilgrimage to the basilica but the restaurant was quite good. Personally I had the salade de St Jacques tièdes (first photo). The salad was very fresh and crispy and it did not come too cold. This happens often with salads staying too long in the fridge. I believe mine was made upon request. The scallops were excellent, coming warm and nicely seasoned.
Crème brûlée
Profiteroles
Baba au rhum
The desserts were also good. I had the rum baba/baba au rhum which was nice. It was well soaked in rum (as you can see in the photo above) so only order it if you are into alcohol!
Cost and conclusion: it was 94 euros and we were 5. Not a bad value for money considering the quality of the food and the central location of the restaurant. Highly recommended if you are in the area!
Some photos of the Sainte Madeleine (Mary Magdalene) basilica:
The entrance
Beautiful organ
Restaurant La Gravette 48 boulevard Aguillon, Antibes 06600 France Phone: 04 93 34 18 60 Closed on Tuesday
Antibes - le Fort Carré
La Gravette
La Gravette is a restaurant located at the entrance of the old town of Antibes, right behind les vieux murs (the old walls) separating the town from the harbour. You cannot miss this location as it is reserved for pedestrians only and very touristic. Fortunately La Gravette is not a tourist trap. It has actually been there for over 50 years and owned by the same family (second and third generation now). With such beautiful and warm weather we decided to eat on the terrace. It is quite large and there is a good amount of space between the tables.
As its name suggests (la gravette is a fishing term, a kind of worm for catching fishes) this restaurant is specialised into fish. They do serve meat as well but fish is big in their menu.
We ordered a salade niçoise (11 euros) followed by the meal of the day which was a Saint Pierre fish – known as John Dory in English (14 euros) and a fromage blanc et son coulis de fruits rouges (white cheese with red fruits coulis) as dessert (5.50 euros). I had the 3 course menu at 26 euros offering several choices of the first and second courses and the dessert. I chose the tarte fine à la tomate et basilic avec salade verte (thin tart with tomato and basil, with green salad) as starter. The main course was the loup grillé (grilled seabass) au fenouil and the dessert was a tarte tatin tiède glace vanille et chantilly. To drink I had a (very good) glass of rosé Côte de Provence AOC (3 euros). The basket of bread and the cold bottle of tap water were complementary.
Other interesting meals we could have chosen were the noix de St jacques et ses tagliatelles de légumes à la provençale (scallops – 22 euros), la bouillabaisse individuelle avec ses croûtons et sa rouille (22 euros), gambas à la provençale (22 euros), Merlu grillé ou meunière et son beurre à l’ail (Cod like fish like the hake grilled with garlic butter – 22 euros). As desserts the fromage de chèvre frais à l’huile d’olive (fresh goat cheese with olive oil – 5.50 euros) and the Crème catalane (lemon and cinamon cream – 8 euros) were original.
Tarte fine à la tomate et basilic
Salade niçoise
The salade niçoise was very good indeed. The salad was very nice, crisp and fresh, with with a good accompaniment of sliced boiled eggs and tuna. Everything in just the right proportions and nicely seasoned. Really difficult to find any fault with this dish. The thin tart with tomato and basil was simple but excellent. The base was very light and warm, and the tomatos were tasty.
Saint Pierre fish fillets
Loup grillé au fenouil
The Saint Pierre fillets were also good. This is a firmly textured white fish, that does well just lightly fried in a bit of butter – as was the case with the fillets that arrived on the plate. They were seasoned with a variety of herbs and tomato, and accompanied by a boiled new potato and an assortment of vegetables. After the big starter, this light dish was very enjoyable, and I wouldn’t hestitate to return and try it again. The loup grillé was great. The waiter brought the fish out whole after it was cooked, then asked if I wanted to have it filleted (i.e. your choice of presentation), which I accepted since I was not in the mood to deal with fish bones. It was a nice meal, and healthy too!
Tarte tatin
Fromage blanc et son coulis de fruits rouges
For anyone not into too-sweet desserts, the white cheese with coulis is the perfect answer. On appearances alone, I worried for a moment that the coulis was going to be too sweet, but I worried needlessly. It was still tart to the tastebuds, but with just enough sweetness to make it an easily consumable dessert, and set off nicely the slight bitterness of the white cheese. An excellent dessert that I would return to this restaurant just to have again. The tarte tatin was delicious. It arrived warm and the cooked apples had a light caramelised flavour. It was not too sweet. The ice cream, on the other side, was quite average.
Good coffee
Cost and conclusion: it was 63.50 euros, including the two good cups of coffee (4 euros). La Gravette is not a gastronomic restaurant by any means, but it is an excellent local fish restaurant providing simple, fresh and tasty dishes. The value for money is good and there is even a 3 course menu for 19 euros which is very well priced. The location is excellent, same for the friendly service. Highly recommended if you are in the area!
Some photos of Antibes:
The marché provençal on Sunday
You can walk on the walls
View of the restaurant from the walls. At the right the marina.
The marina in Antibes
Interesting narrow building in the Old Antibes
Restaurant Le Righi 1, place du Fort 06500 Sainte Agnès France Tél: 04 92 10 90 88
Superb panoramic view over Menton
View over the coast from Italy to Cap Martin in France
Saint Agnès is the highest coastal village in Europe sitting at 800 metres and is listed by the “Les plus beaux villages de France” (the most beautiful villages of France) organisation. It is quite a drive to get there from Menton: the mountain road is pretty narrow in some parts but at least the view is breathtaking. Just be sure you do not have vertigo. In winter time at night I would not like to drive there, it is easy to miss a corner 😉 The village is 15 minute drive from the casino in Menton.
To go to Le Righi restaurant you have to pass by the village and park your car in front of the panoramical view next to the Fort, now a museum, of the Maginot line (actually it is called the Alpine line in this area). Who would have thought about a restaurant there? Le Righi has two panoramic terrasses offering an exceptional view over the coast. We are above Menton and we can see the coast from Italy to Cap Martin.
It is a family oriented restaurant where pets are welcome. The owners have a big dog near the entrance and there were some clients with a dog sitting next to us. The menu is simple, with a few prix fixe menus and we chose a 3 course menu at 20 euros and a 4 course menu (different choice of meals and the cheese added compared to the 20 euros menu) at 25 euros. We also ordered a grapefruit juice (2.50 euros) and a glass of red wine (3.50 euros).
A glass of wine & grapefruit juice
Pâté de foie gras
Vegetarian ravioli
The foie gras, served with a little salad with tomatos and some toasts, was average in portion and in taste. I have had a lot larger slices of foie gras on a 25 euros menu. The ravioli was decent – and nicely cooked al dente. I took the meat-stuffed variety over vegetarian, which was perhaps a bit of a mistake as it wasn’t briliantly paired with the butter sauce and parmesan cheese. Overall, a little bit average and not something I’d be in a great hurry to have again.
Gigot d'agneau (lamb)
Baked trout
The baked trout, which came with a white sauce seasoned (I think) with a form of spinich, was difficult to fault : it was nicely cooked, with a crispy skin. But somehow it just lacked anything special, so overall was an OK dish but not something I’d be rushing back to have again. It came with some nicley baked potato slices and some grilled mushrooms. As a general observation, the meal was rather like something one might cook at home, lacking that something special that makes food an event. The gigot d’agneau (lamb) was served with potatos, carrots, aubergines and mushrooms. It was good and healthy but nothing exceptional, unlike the view!
The desserts
Apple pie
Chocolate cake, lemon tart, ice cream
Dessert was a very generous slice of apple pie, served with vanilla icecream and chantilly cream. The waiter did take some time to explain that the pie wasn’t up to their usual standard today, being a little undercooked (so I had plenty opportunity to choose something else). Actually it was OK – indeed, a little undercooked and consequently a bit heavy. But considering I was well warned about that, I don’t feel it is anything to complain about (everyone has their off days). Undercooked or not, actually it was quite good and not at all oversweetened. The chocolate cake and the lemon tart were fine.
Cost and conclusion: It was 51 euros. The food overall was OK, but not fantastic. It does not offer a very good value for money compared to Le Vauban in Antibes for example. The service was very friendly. This is a restaurant to which one goes for the view and pleasant surroundings, far more than for the food. And for the excellent view, it does get top marks – difficult to fault. If you’re in the area, that view and a bite to eat are worth stopping in for.
More photos:
le Righi is the tiny orange dot in the centre, at the right of the village of Sainte Agnès
Between the two on top there are the ruins of the medieval castle.
The restaurant is at the right. The bunker is part of the Ligne Maginot and can be visited
Restaurant Le Petit Prince 15 rue Frédéric Mistral 06530 Cabris France Open 12h – 14h30 and 19h15 – 22h Closed on Tuesday and Wednesday, except in July and August where it is closed only on Wednesday.
The entrance (photo taken after the dinner)
The garden area
Overview
Back to the beautiful perched (550 metres high) village of Cabris! This time we went to the restaurant Le Petit Prince named after the book of the same name. Countess Marie de Saint Exupéry who lived in the village from 1934 to 1971 gave the permission for the restaurant to carry the name of her son Antoine de Saint Exupéry’s famous book. The interior dining area with stone wall and exposed beams is decorated with the “Petit Prince” character. We ate in the front garden since it was a nice warm evening.
We ordered the 4 course menu at 32 euros since it offered a good value for money and a decent choice of meals. As starters you can choose between Foie gras et magret fumé façon club, compotée d’oignons, pointes d’asperges et pommes vertes (foie gras with onion chutney, asparagus et green apples) or Tartare de saumon frais sur lit de salade, chiffonnade de saumon fumé, sauce au tarama (fresh salmon and smoked salmon with salad) or Eventail de fruits et légumes tout autour de l’assiette, buisson de salade (artichauts, avocats, tomates, mangue, melon et pamplemousse) which is a plate of vegetables and fruits (artichoke, avocado, mango, grapefruit, melon, tomato).
For the main courses, you have the choice between Gambas grillés, sauce vierge et risotto aux trois poivrons (shrimps with virgin sauce and risotto) or Saint-Pierre, mangue et marinade passion (John Dory fish with mango and passion fruit) or magret de canard poêlé aux pêches, sauce poivrade (duck breast with pears and pepper sauce) or pavé de selle d’agneau persillé sur poêlée de légumes grillés, jus au thym frais (lamb with grilled vegetables, fresh thyme sauce). Then you get the cheese course followed by the desserts, giving you the choice between Palet sablé caramel au beurre salé or coeur fondant au chocolat or douceur de pêches pochées maison et crème brulée pistache or nos glaces et sorbets. We also ordered a bottle of mineral water Badoit (4.40 euros) and a carafe of 50cl of red wine (4 euros) which was good.
A cat guest
Coming to say Hello
Resting... He eventually left when he saw the waitress
While we were waiting for our meal, we found we had some furry company. A neighbouring cat – who, from the look of the size of his belly, enjoyed considerable success in sharing the meals of many patrons – appeared. He took his time about making his presence known, exploring some nearby tables. But he disappeared rather quickly at the reappearance of the waitress. Clearly not a popular guest with everyone!
Complementary tapenade (olives paté)
Before our starters arrived, we were given a plate of tapenade and crostini. As in any decent restaurant, this sort of appetizer was complementary. The crostini were nicely crispy and just flavoured with olive oil – unlike the greasy hard fried bread concoction I had at Terroirs in London (and they had the nerve to charge for it, even for the bread, free here). The olive tapenade was excellent – neither too salty nor swimming in olive oil. A most enjoyable beginning to the meal.
The starters
Eventail de fruits et légumes
The starter was enormous It was a range of fruits and vegetables, nicely presented around a small bit of salad with asparagus. On my plate was artichoke, tomato, avocado, melon, mango, apple, and grapefruit. All were perfectly ripe. It was a nice balance between sweet and savoury. Definitely recommended.
Foie gras et magret fumé façon club
It was a delicious sandwich of smoked duck and foie gras
Close-up
The foie gras et magret fumé façon club was absolutely yummy Not only it was fun to eat foie gras with a layer of smoked ham in a sandwich, it was also excellent with the crispy bread. With the slices of green apples and the asparagus heads, it was quite an original and interesting meal.
Saint Pierre, mangue et marinade passion
The Saint Pierre fish (John Dory) was also nicely done. It came with a sort of mango sauce, which had me a little worried from the description, but actually was pretty good. John Dory is an underrated fish, that has firm and flavoursome fillets. It was served with some nicely cooked vegetables, including broccoli and saparagus. A perfect accompaniment, and overall a not-too-heavy meal.
Pavé de selle d'agneau
The lamb was very good, perfectly cooked. It was easy to cut and the taste was excellent, almost smooth with a thyme flavour given by the sauce. I forgot how the tomatoes actually taste and smell like tomatoes here,with that fruity flavour. What a shock compared to what we usually get in London, but then the weather isn’t exactly the same 😉
Fromages sur lit de salade
The two desserts
Douceur de pêches pochées maison et crème brulée pistache
After the cheeses, very good by the way, the douceur de pêches pochées was very good – it was still quite firm, though not quite crunchy and still had some tang to the flavour. The top part was a sort of creme brulee with pistachio which completmented the fruit nicely. Not being too much into sweet things, I found this dessert to be excellent.
Coeur fondant au chocolat
The chocolate fondant was quite good. It was perfectly cooked with a firm outside and the expected soft flowing centre. It was just a little too sweet for my taste (though I’ve encountered many sweeter). But overall still good, and the sweetness would suit the taste of many people. It was served with vanilla icecream, which was also quite good. Bellevue Rendez-vous still does it better though.
Cost and conclusion: it was 72.40 euros. Overall it was a very pleasant meal, with good quality food and friendly service. The starters in particular were very good, but overall it was good also. I would not hesitate to return, and to take the same meals (unless tempted by something else on the menu). Highly recommended!
Chez Marguerite 31 rue Sade – Place nationale 06600 Antibes, France
Chez Marguerite - left and right
On the right side
It is quite large
We wanted to go to le Vauban restaurant which offers some of the best value for money in Antibes, but unfortunately it was fully booked so we had to find another place. A restaurant I used to go often when I worked in Mougins is le Brûlot, famous for their magrets de canard cooked in a woodfire oven, but it was also closed today at lunch time. Considering Antibes is quite a popular tourist destination, having the largest marina in Europe, its old town and fortress, there are quite a few tourist trap restaurants so we were a little worried. We decided to go to this one, nicely located at the place nationale between many other restaurants.
Their main promotion was a moules frites formula at 12.50 euros (marinière, oriental, with cream, with safran). They also had roasted chicken with fries (9 euros), lasagne with salad (10 euros) and as meal of the day they had a sirloin with mushrooms and cream (12 euros), gambas à la provençale (shrimps cooked with tomatos, onions and garlic – 14.50 euros) and a couscous maison (home made couscous – 15.50 euros). They have woodfire-baked pizzas too.
Badoit and red wine
We ordered a sole meunière (butter fried sole – 23 euros) and a magret de canard au poivre (duck breast with pepper sauce – 18 euros). As drinks we have a bottle of sparkling water Badoit (5.70 euros) and a 25 cl carafe of red wine (5 euros). The wine was very average.
The two main courses
Sole meunière
The sole meunière (butter fried sole) was very good. It was nicely seasoned and the fish perfectly cooked – firm, and easy to slide off the bones. With a touch of lemon juice, was really a perfect lunch. It was served with some new potatoes, and a small salad and green beans. I wouldn’t hesitate to take this dish again.
Magret de canard au poivre
The magret de canard (duck) was a little strange. It looked they removed the fat from the top of it… Well usually people like the fat when it is well cooked so it becomes crispy. The meat itself was not bad but the pepper sauce was on the too salty side, a little like at French restaurant Gastro in Clapham Common (London) by the way. The fries could have been warmer.
Cost and conclusion: it was 51.70 euros. The lunch was ok, but nothing special. Same with the service. There are better restaurants around offering much better value for money like le Vauban, le Brûlot Pasta or la Gravette within 2 minutes walk.
A good way to digest lunch is to walk around the marina!
