Pizzeria Franco Manca
4, Market Row, Electric Lane, Brixton
London SW9 8LD
Reviewed on Saturday 16 May 2009 lunch time
Pizzeria Franco Manca
This was the third attempt to get a lunch at Franco Manca and we were finally successful! The first time we tried to go there was on a Sunday and this place is closed on Sunday because it is within Brixton Market (closed on Sunday). We managed to eat at the Ship Tavern then. The second time we went on a Saturday for 12:30 pm and the queue was so long that we did not have the patience to wait and instead discovered a new Japanese restaurant called Ukai Sushi which was good. This time we decided to camp there Friday night go there early on Saturday to be sure to avoid the queue so we managed to get there for 11:20 am. The pizzeria was already open and doing preparation, but not yet ready to accept clients. They told us to come at 12 when they formally open. We walked around the market area (watch your wallet…) and came back to the restaurant at 11:40 where we saw people seated! We jumped quickly on the few available seats to be certain to get one. We had to wait until 12 when they formally took everyone’s order. If you wish to avoid the queue, come early too because at 12 there was already a queue. When we left at 1, the queue was long enough to go to the street (see photos below).
The menu is quite simple: you have the choice between 6 pizzas and there is also a pizza of the day. We asked for the pizza of the day and a calzone. As drink we had the beer (Hepworth organic 330ml – £1.90) and a glass of red wine (Organic Dolcetto – £1.40 for 125ml but I think it was more 250ml than 125ml!). Franco Manca is known for their sourdough pizza base: “The pizza is made from slow-rising sourdough (minimum 20 hours) and is baked in a wood burning ‘Tufac’ brick oven made in Naples by a specialist artisan. This oven produces a heat of about 500 degrees c (930 degrees f). The slow levitation and blast-cooking process lock in the flours natural aroma and moisture giving it a soft and easily digestible crust. As a result, the edge (cornicione) is excellent and shouldn’t be discarded” as they explain on their menu.
Franco Manca is not your typical restaurant: in fact, it is more canteen than restaurant. Think paper serviettes, long tables, seating according to how many will fit (and you might have to get up partway to let someone in or out), and choose-your-own cuttlery from a tin in the centre of the table. One glass tumbler per person, to hold whichever drink you choose. So its as basic as you can get. Then there is the setting to consider – France Manca is inside Brixton market. In fact, it occupies small sites on both sides of the main alley, so there is a constant stream of people passing through. 2 metres away is a fishmarket – and yes, you do smell it. Sitting in the aisle of a market, you’re open to all the sights, smells and temperatures (no heating here). So is it worth coming? Read on and decide for yourself.
The pizzas were excellent! I really like when the base is crispy on the outside and slightly burnt while being still soft inside. For the Calzone the sour taste was a little strong but with the pizza of the day it was fine. We were not too keen on the drink. The beer was ok, but it could have been cooler. On the bottle they say to serve it at 5° and I believe it was warmer than that. As for the glass of wine, it tasted a little like cheese at the beginning and then it was ok (and there is no such thing as a wine glass here). It would be nicer to have more choice even if it would be more expensive. After the pizzas we got two espressos (£1 each). They were really tiny but excellent. One downside is the proximity of a fishmonger next door and we could smell fish from time to time depending on the direction of the wind. Since the restaurant is on both sides of the main alley in the covered part of Brixton market, it might be better to choose the side opposite the fish store – if you can.
Pizza of the day
Wood burning 'Tufac' brick oven
Glass of wine and organic beer from Hepworth & Co
Pizza of the day
Pizza Calzone
The two pizzas, and you can see the chilli oil
Getting busy...
The queue going to the street at 1 pm!
Cost and conclusion: for £16 (service charge not included automatically to the bill – we like that) the lunch was excellent. It is not just good value for money but it is also good in absolute. Until now our best pizzeria was the Rustica in Richmond (especially their Buffalo pizza) but Franco Manca is challenging it well. The two are pretty different by their surrounding (Rustica is in Richmond, Franco Manca is in Brixton market…) and setting which is reflected by the bill (almost half price here) but they share one thing in common: quality pizzas! The service was friendly and efficient. We will be back of course.
